buddha's birthday bash

A couple of weeks ago, on 4 June, Mongolia celebrated Buddha's 2556th birthday. Needless to say, he is one seriously old dude. Or lady. Who really knows? If Monkey taught us anything, it's to doubt the gender of the actors playing Buddha in a poorly dubbed 1980s...what was it? Wiki says "fantasy, action, adventure, comedy". That sums it up nicely.

Ahh. The memories of my wasted youth...


Anyway, Buddha's birthday. Possibly the best decisions I've made since arriving here in UB (aside from, obviously, the one where I thought I'd take a two month hiatus from winter) was to attend the lantern ceremony or "Zul" at the Dambadarjaalin Monastery, a few kilometres north of the city centre.


It had been a glorious summer day, the kind that makes you skip in the street. We'd heard about the ceremony a few weeks before, we had to buy tickets from the "Grab and Go" fast food vans that are dotted around the city.  This part of the plan didn't instil me with much confidence about the quality of the event I'd opted into.

Grab & Go. Not my first choice for culinary adventures

We were instructed to meet at the Children's Palace at 6pm where a bus would take us to the monastery. Rumour had quickly spread late into the afternoon that the bus wasn't coming and that the whole event going to be over before it started. But we met, and we waited patiently and were all surprised when the bus turned up, on time (for Mongolia) and in the right place!


I really had no idea where we were going, but the bus soon headed north and we were into the ger districts before I knew it. The ger districts are not 'typically' beautiful. Not like the streets of Paris or London. But I love them. I love the colourful array of roofs, I love the haphazard arrangement of the dwellings (an equal mix of houses and gers) and the rambling dirt roads strewn with all sorts of flotsam and jetsam. I love the random encounters with livestock.


We soon arrived at the monastery. I walked through the gates and was immediately stuck with a sense of calm and lightness, the likes of which I'd never before experienced. Music was playing, the sun was shining and monks drifted about in their saffron and crimson robes.

Hanging out with a monk - photo credit to Ben Packham

The monastery itself was, of course, beautiful. Though I  believe the sparkling sun light had a lot to do with my perception! The dozen or so monastic buildings were scattered around several acres of land, highlighted by a hill atop of which a small ovoo sat proudly against the clear skies. 

Grey sky - an Ovoo overlooking Erdenet

Monastic building, hill and small ovoo behind

Long abandoned and haunted

Spooky - Another Ben Packham winner

As the sun inched closer to the horizon we made our way to the field where dozens of Mongolian families, many spanning several generations, had already gathered. The monks arranged themselves according to rank along the pews and their chanting intensified. The whole evening they sang only one song. Ordinarily it would drive you bonkers, but their voices were hypnotic and only added to the magical feeling in the air.

I nearly took this one home in my pocket

They have Mongolian Bogans too!

Li Chi, Bron and Jessy 

Zul 

I feel like I've been blabbering on for ages.  I haven't even got to the best part! The lanterns! We were given incense, holy water and a lantern kit when we arrived.  As dusk approached, I opened the packet and puzzled over the instructions, written in the best example of Engrish I've seen since the t-shirt incident at Narantuul a few weeks ago. Obviously my best bet was to find a Mongolian who'd done this sort of thing before...

Dusk - lantern time

Nick and Jess attempt to interpret Engrish

Li Chi and Nick 

Bron

After a few attempts at assembly and several singed knuckles, my wish was secure, albeit on fire, and on its way to the skies! 

Away we go!

It actually wasn't quite as simple as that, as many found out.  You have to hold the lantern until there is enough hot air to lift it into the air like a balloon. Holding it was a challenge in itself. Knowing when to let go was another matter as Jess found out...

Jess receives expert assistance after her first failed attempt

Fly, lantern, FLY!

...!

It was clear from the moment Jess let go that the lantern wasn't going to make it over the wall. But in keeping with the spirit of the night, some lovely teenage boys chased the it all the way to the gate, hoisting themselves up inorder to free it from the nook it had drifted into. Jess, I sure hope your wish comes true.

Happy birthday, Buddha. Thanks for filling me with the sense of warmth and wonderment I thought I'd lost in childhood. 

Ax